Puerto Cerrados and Other Delicious Eats in BA

Argentina defaulted on the second largest debt ever in 2001, subsequently, inflation went through the roof and people tried to find other ways to make money. This resulted in numerous “Puerto Cerrados” or closed door restaurants. Essentially, chefs opened up their homes to those in the know and served multi course dinners and drinks for a fee to blossom even though the economy has improved a little. Finding out about them is a little easier now too, thanks to Trip Adviser and the internet. We found one, Paladar, that seemed affordable and we thought was near us. However, the actual location was top secret until our reservation was confirmed. So we emailed requesting reservations and got an email back saying they could take us Friday at 9pm and gave us the address. It was about a 20 minute walk from where we were staying and we ended up getting there right at 9:00pm. We were the first ones there!! We went upstairs into a cute, dimly light living room with about 10 tables, all covered in white linen and candles. A fire was roaring in the fireplace across from our table (remember, it is winter here, so a fire was a perfect touch!) and candles flickered all over the room, it was such a relaxing, romantic atmosphere that we almost forgot that we were in someones house! We sat at a table near the stairs and after a few minutes another couple rang the bell, after that a new couple arrived about every 15-30 minutes. Our host brought over some sparkling water and a cocktail of orange juice and amaretto which we enjoyed with our selection of homemade bread- a nutty rye bread, a light foccacia, pan de queso and crusty, wire thin breadsticks served with an herb butter.

Next we were brought a light appetizer of breaded and fried blue cheese in an amazing, creamy sauce.

Our next course was a sausage course with 2 sausages one of which was served with the traditional peas and a potato cake topped with eggplant (Our chef’s English was not very good, and our Spanish is not very good, so we only had a vague idea of what many of the items we ate were- oh well, they were all delicious!) This was paired with an excellent Argentine Chardonnay.

Our main course was a risotto with almonds and sweetbreads. The risotto was incredible and perfectly done and the almonds made for an amazing addition. I had a few bites of the sweetbreads and they were fine, but I just can’t do sweetbreads. I can’t. Fortunately, Nick enjoyed them and they didn’t go to waste. This was paired with an Argentine Merlot.

Next we were served stewed strawberries and peppers which sounds odd but made for a great combo, they were tangy and sweet, a nice pre-postre bite!

Finally, we got dessert… oh the dessert! We had a chocolate cake with a mascarpone and white chocolate topping, a shmear of chocolate ganache decorated the plate and the whole thing was rounded out with macerated mixed berries and a square of dark chocolate.. it was divine, and this is coming from someone who is not even that big on chocolate!

Needless, to say when we left their house around midnight we were quite full, but the meal was absolutely incredible!

We have some some really amazing meals here- not just a Paladar. Here is a list of some of my favorites:

• Burger Joint- exactly what it sounds like. A great burger joint with only 4 burgers on the menu, but what it lacks in options, it totally made up for in flavor. Hands down one of the best burgers I have had.
• Arepare- Venezuelan food. We got a mix-n-match platter which came with several small arepas (Venezuelan flatbreads) and 2 kinds of chicken, beef, beans, cheese, and avocados to stuff into the flatbreads and 2 sauces- one garlicy, one cilantro-y but neither one very spicy. We were expecting a lot more spicy food in Central and South America, but so far its all been pretty mild.
• Street Parillas- Slightly suspect (how long has that meat been sitting out for? When was the last time that grill was cleaned? How often does the Asador wash his hands?) but so, so delicious, and ridiculously cheap!
• Empanadas from anywhere and everywhere. Yum!

One thing that we have become quite suspicious of are the sandwiches here. We have yet to order a good one at a restaurant (although, we have had good ones at specialty meat/cheese shops), most of the time they are just a little meat and a little cheese, not even lettuce or tomato in white bread with the crust cut off- it’s like being back in 4th grade!